May is one of the prettiest times of the year. Lovely spring flowers bloom in the gardens and colorful paper lanterns are hung over the streets to celebrate Buddha’s birthday, which is lunar April 8th. Looking like luscious fruits, lotus lanterns catch people’s attention with their bright colors.

Buddha’s birthday falls on May 10th this year. It is also called the Day of Buddha’s Coming or in the Buddhist circles “deungseok” or “the evening of lanterns” because of the lighting of lanterns at the nightfall. Korea has designated Buddha’s birthday as a public holiday in 1975 and has been celebrating it to remember Buddha’s teachings. Buddha came to this world to teach people of the foolishness of greed and the importance of compassion. In marking Buddha’s birthday, let’s visit Bongeun Temple, located in the hustle and bustle of modern Samseong-dong in southern Seoul.

Bongeun Temple is located just 700 meters from Samseong Station of subway line number 2 and Cheongdam Station of subway line number 7. The Samseong-dong neighborhood is anchored by COEX, an expansive convention hall where the 2010 G20 Summit was held, five-star Hotel Intercontinental, and multifunctional Trade Center, among others. And nestled among these towering buildings is Bongeun Temple, an enclave of serenity for urban dwellers. The main temple of Korea’s Jogye Order of Buddhism. Bongeun Temple’s history dates back to 794 when revered Buddhist monk Yeon-hui established it under the name Gyeonseong Temple. The temple’s nearly 1200-year history lends the compound an aura of mystique and awe. The tour of Bongeun Temple begins at its main entrance, Jinyeo-mun. Here’s Mr. Jo Hyeon-deok of the temple management staff to explain more about the gate.

The gateway to a temple is usually called Ilju-mun. In the olden days Bongeun Temple’s Ilju-mun was originally built outside the current compound toward COEX. Urban development had pushed the gate to the present location. Jinyeo-mun is just another name for Ilju-mun. Meaning the persistent state of truth, Jinyeo-mun is the boundary separating the secular world and the world of Buddha. So once you pass through Jinyeo-mun, you should leave behind all the secular worries and greed and enter Buddah’s world with a pure heart.

Having guarded Bongeun Temple since its establishment, Jinyeo-mun comprises of eight large stone pillars on top of which lies a tiled roof. The gate itself is divided into three sections in the front and two sections on the side, separating the inner sanctum from the outside world.

- I feel peaceful as if I’m deep in the mountain. The inside of Bongeun Temple is a completely different world. My mind is at ease and greed is gone and I feel happy. In the secular world I am troubled, but here I’m at peace. Everyone feels blessed here.
-) All my worries disappear as soon as I enter Bongeun Temple. I am grateful for little things and more appreciative of nature. Although the neighborhood is one of the busiest and most modern areas in Seoul, once inside it feels like I’ve gone back in time. Everything is in harmony with nature and I feel refreshed.

As visitors enter Jinyeo-mun, they are greeted by large wooden sculptures representing four gods of heaven. To the west stands Beopwang-ru, the temple’s auditorium. A modern addition to the temple, Beopwang-ru is always filled with the faithful. Here’s Mr. Jo Hyeon-deok again to explain more about the building.

Beopwang-ru is where Buddha’s laws are alive and well. This is where the Buddhist service and ceremonies are held. There are 3,300 paintings of Bodhisattva, the Buddhist god of mercy, on the wall, and the faithful come here to discuss the Buddhist principles and wash away all the anguish with Buddha’s words.

Past Beopwangru, visitors come to the main hall, Daewungjeon, where colorful lotus lanterns welcome the coming of Buddha’s birthday. The sound of Buddhist chant fills the air surrounding Daewungjeon, giving peace of mind to the visitors.

Daewungjeon is a spacious structure with an upwardly curved roof. It features a stone staircase with engraved dragons. Here’s Mr. Jo Hyeon-deok to tell us more about Daewungjeon.

Daewungjeon is where Buddha supposedly resides. It is the central part of all Buddhist temples and the venue for important rituals. The dragon was engraved on the Daewungjeon staircase to remember the king, who helped fund the reconstruction himself when the temple suffered a fire 300 years ago. And the murals on the Daewungjeon wall depict the life of Buddha. One of the paintings called Shimwudo portrays the pursuit of zen as a search for a bull.

One of Bongeun Temple’s signatures is the 23-meter-tall stone Buddha, the largest Buddha sculpture in Korea. A gentle smile is fixed around Buddha’s lips as if it is looking down on the city with love and compassion. Moving on, visitors come to a particularly ancient building. Panjeon, the storage space for the wooden blocks of Buddhist scripture, is so culturally and historically important that it was designated a national cultural asset. Here’s Mr. Jo Hyeon-deok again.

Panjeon now has about 3,500 wooden printing blocks of Buddhist scripture. It was established by Venerable Yeonki, the chief priest of Bongeun Temple some 150 years ago. The Buddhist scripture is sacred in that it is the laws of Buddha. So panjeon, where the Buddhist scripture is kept, is also sacred. But our panjeon is meaningful in another way. The plaque over the entrance was written by the famous Korean calligrapher Chusa Kim Jeong-hee. The plaque is cherished for it was written when he was very ill, three days before he died at the age of 71.

It is said that the calligrapher often visited Bongeun Temple after he returned home from exile embittered. The plaque was written in 1856 during one of his numerous visits, making it more than 150 years old.

Bongeun Temple hosts a temple stay program every Thursday to inform foreigners about Korean Buddhist culture. The two-hour program includes a tour of the temple, a tea ceremony and zen meditation, and a make-your-own-lantern session. The temple’s urban location makes it a popular destination for foreign tourists in Seoul.

Once the temple tour is over, visitors take part in a tea ceremony. The structured ceremonial process and warm fragrant tea lends a deep sense of calm to visitors.
When the body is warmed up with tea, the zen meditation session begins.
Three strikes of a bamboo rod signal the beginning of meditation.
Meditation is done in full lotus position. Your right foot is placed on top of your left thigh, and your left foot on your right thigh, and the hands should be folded over your stomach. In this position visitors go into meditation. Foreigners not accustomed to this sitting position find it the most difficult part of the meditation session, yet they admit it was the most satisfying part of the temple stay program. Here’s Buddhist monk Musang, publicity director of Bongeun Temple.

Many people today suffer from stress and other mental illnesses. Such mental and spiritual difficulties can be healed through zen meditation. The healing process calls for being comfortable and kind to the loved ones around us, and while doing so, we grow fonder of ourselves. When foreigners start zen meditation, they find the breathing and sitting position very difficult. But they profess at the end that they loved it, because they get a chance to reflect on themselves and find out more about Korean Buddhism.

When you meditate, ask yourselves who you are. Not your name or age, but the true you. Your name is not the true you. Ask yourselves not what you like or dislike, but what you truly feel in your heart.

During the 20-minute meditation, the presiding monk asks various questions to the participants so that they can find their true selves on their own. Sitting in lotus position for 20 minutes is so strenuous for these participants that perspiration dots their foreheads and all the joints in their bodies seem to creak. But their hearts and spirits become as light as a feather.

-I liked meditating in the prayer hall. It was very quiet and peaceful. I was able to understand the meaning of meditation as a religion and a personal training.
- I just finished meditating and it was very peaceful. I tried not to think too much about other things during meditation. I only thought about who I am, not where I came from, but searched for the true me. I breathed in and out slowly. It was a really good experience.

Making your own lotus lantern is another popular course of the temple stay program.
Gluing in on one paper lotus petal at a time builds patience and increases appreciation for the craft. Participants each make a secret wish to go along with the lantern.

I’m making a paper lotus flower. The lotus flower supposedly symbolizes the spiritual awakening of Buddha. The flower I’m making has three petals inside, four petals in the middle layer, and five in the outer layer. And then I put on the green leaves.

Why do the Buddhists make the lotus lanterns and string them up near heaven? Here’s Mr. Kim Chun-ki to explain more.

The most widely known symbol of Buddhism is the lotus flower. The lotus flowers bloom even in dirty ponds, their beauty untainted by the unclean water. That’s why the lotus flower represents the purification of the world. We hang up the lanterns once a year on Buddha’s birthday to make a wish to Buddha and pledge to live a better life.

As the temple stay program comes to a close, the fish-shaped wind chimes ring out in the wind. The reason for hanging fish-like wind chimes in the temple is to remind people to be always vigilant and awake like the fish. Visitors gain another lesson in life at the end of the day.

Bongeun Temple has stood firm in its place for over a thousand years through all the troubles and changes. If you are seeking peace of mind and some kind of understanding about your place in the universe, come visit Bongeun Temple and look deep inside yourself to find answers.