Fall colors are swooping down from the north and dying the mountains in Korea’s mid-region in fiery red and eye-popping yellow. The same mountains were covered in glorious flowers in the spring and refreshing green leaves in the summer, but now they border the sparkling autumn sky with splendid colors. And where in Seoul is the best place to enjoy the crystal clear sky and colorful fall foliage? One recommendation is Namsangol Hanok Village, a pocket of Joseon-era tradition in the middle of the capital.

Namsangol Hanok Village is only five minutes away on foot from Chungmuro Station of subway lines 3 and 4. A sign points to an alley which leads to the main entrance of Namsangol Hanok Village. It seems a totally different world inside the gates, an enclave of quiet life so far apart from the heavily traveled city streets just a few blocks away. Namsangol Hanok Village was created in 1998 as a part of the Seoul municipal government’s effort to restore original features of Mt. Nam in the city’s center. The village is celebrating its 14th anniversary as a place of respite for Seoul denizens. Here’s Village Director Lee Young-don to tell us more about it.

The entire Hanok Village measures about 79 thousand square meters, but hanoks take about ten percent of the area. Across the village is Seoul Namsan Traditional Theater, which measures about 2,300 square meters and included in the hanok compound. The village also features Cheonghakji Pond, Seoul Millennium Time Capsule Plaza, and a traditional garden. A military base used to be stationed here, so the grounds had been damaged. We created the valley, erected buildings, planted trees, and generally restored the area as it was before to recreate the Joseon period atmosphere.

The first thing you see as you enter the Hanok Village is the traditional garden, the beauty of which is brought out further by the soothing melody of traditional Korean music. Over the colorful trees you can see the tall Namsan N Tower. To the left of the garden are Cheonghakji Pond and Cheonwugak, and to the right stand such pavilions and gazebos as Cheonryujeong and Gwaneojeong. Here’s Here’s Village Director Lee Young-don again.

Cheonwugak is a Joseon-era gazebo built near the pond to admire the beautiful scenery and keep cool in summer. A little way up to the right of the pavilion is another waterside structure called Cheongryujeong. As the name indicates, this place is marked by a clear stream running next to it. Another 50 meters up the way, you can find a small pond with a pavilion of its own called Gwaneojeong, which means a pavilion for watching fish. You can see the king’s palace from a spot a little to the north of the pavilion. On your way down to the hanok compound, you can stop by Pigeumjeong, a summerhouse the name of which means a place to unbutton your top and feel the cool, refreshing breeze. Namsangol Hanok Village is dotted with such pavilions and gazebos.

When visitors arrive at Cheonryujeong past Cheongwugak big enough to host a traditional music concert, they can hear the bubbling sound of the brook running along the shallow valley.

Favoring the intimacy of the small valley and the clear sound of the water, Korean ancestors built a pavilion here to enjoy the natural surroundings and artistic pursuits, such as painting and poetry. Even today the pavilion is a favorite spot for visitors who come to just relax or share pleasant conversations.

- I can see from here the hanok roofs and the blue sky. It feels great to see the pond and smell the pines. I came here with my 80-something mother and I’m glad to see that she’s enjoying herself.
- I came here to relax. The carps playing in the pond are nice and the traditional music played quietly in the background makes the atmosphere more serene. This is the best traditional garden. The pine trees are healthy and nice-looking, too.

Let’s go to the hanok compound now. The cluster of Korean traditional homes is located to the left of the main gate, beyond the plaza in front of Cheonwugak. There are five hanoks, all restored to their former glory. Foreign visitors are likely to learn and enjoy more if they join guided tours conducted in English and Japanese.

The house nearest to the village’s main entrance is the home of Lee Seung-eop, top supervisor of the Gyeongbok Palace restoration project conducted during the time of Prince Daewon at the late 19th century. Lee’s home was relocated from the Cheonggyecheon area to the current site. The house a little way up from the Lee residence was built in the 1890s for Kim Chun-yeong, head of security for four palaces in the late Joseon period. At a glance all the homes may look the same, but a close inspection would reveal intricacies and charms unique to each hanok.

- You can see the sky from anywhere in the house. Watching the sky makes me feel peaceful. Also the flow of the house from room to room seems really convenient.
- The door panels can be raised up to the eaves to create windows to allow the sunlight and the breeze to enter the home during the summer. In the winter you can pull down the panels to create a cozy and warm place for yourself.
- This backyard features quince trees and rows of clay pots. I like the open view the best. Opening one door leads to another door, which leads into another room. I can see everything through the rooms, making the layout really interesting.

In the middle of Namsangol Hanok Village stands the largest of the five hanoks. Here’s tour guide Lee Eun-hyoung to tell us more.

This used to be the home of Min Yeong-hui, a relative of Empress Myeongseong at the end of the Joseon Dynasty. This residence appears very simple in appearance, but vast in size. Look at the size of the maru, or the main living area akin to today’s living room. At present, there are only three buildings in the residence, but originally there were eight buildings. The Min family was very wealthy and their residence was the eighth largest house in the capital in the late Joseon period.

Maru was not the only spacious area of the house. Its kitchen was also roomy, just as big as the living room. People can probably tell how powerful Min Yeong-hui was by merely looking at the size of his home. Visitors can enter each room and see the furniture and accessories from the olden days. Here’s Village Director Lee Young-don to tell us more.

All the furniture and items featured in these hanoks were arranged with the consultations from historians. If we couldn’t get the actual items, we recreated faithful replicas of them. In the main bedroom, there is a square table, a vanity, and a sewing kit used by the mistress of the house. The men’s quarter features writing equipment, a screen, letters, a smoking pipe, and a desk. In the kitchen you can find cabinets, pots, small clay urns for spices, and other kitchen stuff used in a nobleman’s household.

The gloss and smoothness of the wooden floor of hanok is maintained by waxing it with soybean oil. The surface is so flawless that it feels like a baby’s bottom.

- I’m sitting on the wooden floor and admiring its sheen and smooth texture. The doors papered with Korean traditional paper of hanji is beautiful in their subtle color. The patterns on the door are also pretty. I feel like a Joseon era mistress of the house, sitting here on the maru. I’m so happy.
-The line of the eaves, the blue sky, and the dark gray of the roof tiles are combined to create an unparalleled beauty. The squeaky sound made when opening the wooden gates is nostalgic and I can almost see and smell a mother cooking for her family in the kitchen.

Let’s leave Min’s house and go next door.

This is the ritual preparation room of Yun Taek-yeong, father-in-law of Joseon’s last ruler, King Sun-jong. Here he probably got ready for many of the ancestral tributes that were necessary for a noble family of Joseon. Below is the house built in the 1910s for Yun Deok-yeong, an uncle of King Sun-jong’s queen.

Another pleasure of touring Namsangol Hanok Village is a variety of interactive programs. Each house offers a set of programs uniquely reflecting its nature. Here’s Village Director Lee Young-don again.

Each house offers a set of traditional interactive programs. First, there is a hanji craft program, which features making doll outfits made of traditional paper of hanji. Visitors can also experience tea-drinking ceremony and playing traditional Korean musical instruments such as janggu, or the double-ended drum. There are also calligraphy, Hangeul-learning, and walking tour programs available for visitors. These programs are open from eleven in the morning until five in the afternoon every day. On the weekends there are various special events, such as make-your-own traditional masks, learning to play the danso or Korean flute, and creating your own traditional kites or fans.

A samulnori class is in full swing at the home of Yun Deok-yeong.

-I came here with my child to learn Korean traditional music. This is my first time actually trying it. I’ve only seen others play in school. I learned how to hold the drumsticks and put the drum between my legs. Today’s lesson was on hwimori jangdan, which I enjoyed very much. This place is just perfect for the music.

In the front yard of the hanok compound a permanent interactive tent for making Korean traditional flutes, masks, and kites.

Making a five-holed wooden danso is much easier than trying to make a sound out of it.

Danso is not supposed to sound like this, but the creation process has been undeniably enjoyable. Next to the danso-making session is the make-your-own mask lesson. Participants are busy painting the traditional masks.

I didn’t expect much from the Hanok Village except seeing some traditional houses. But I’m having a great time here, making a mask of a young girl. My children are having a grand time and will probably remember this forever.

Trying on the custom-made masks makes a perfect photo op for a group of visitors. Their laughter fades over the sound of music.

The music is from a traditional concert held at Cheonwugak. The repertoire changes every day, and today’s performance is an a cappella Arirang medley. The pleasant sound of Arirang combined with the refreshing autumn breeze seems to take away all the worries. Behind the hanok compound is the Seoul Millennium Time Capsule Plaza, built as a part of the project celebrating the 600th anniversary of Seoul as a capital city. In the bell-shaped time capsule are some 600 pieces of artifacts representing Seoul. It will be opened on November 29th, 2394 as our gift to our posterity some four centuries later.

The Pil-dong area where Namsangol Hanok Village is situated has long been known as a vacation spot for Joseon noblemen and scholars. Even today Namsangol Hanok Village is perfect for urban residents to unwind in the time-honored atmosphere.