The presidential residence of Cheong Wa Dae and major government ministries are gathered in the area near Gwanghwamun in downtown Seoul, giving the neighborhood a political and rigid image. But the area boasts of charming alleys and back roads just right for leisurely afternoon strolls. The historic neighborhood has seen little change over the years, giving the older generation something to reminisce about. One of those time-honored treasures is the stone-walled path around Deoksugung Palace built some 500 years ago. The old walls have seen the tumultuous past of Joseon as well as romantic courtship of countless young couples.

- This path is where I reflect on myself every autumn.
- It’s wonderful here. It’s hard for young couples who just started dating to look each other in the eyes. So they look at the scenery instead. That’s how they get closer. The path also retains the traditional atmosphere and beautiful scenery, which could offer something unique to foreign visitors.
- The atmosphere created by the stoned walls is one of nostalgia. This used to be a must-go place for young lovers. I am of that generation.
- It’s still there at the stoned walls of Deoksugung Palace. A small, snow-covered…

Covered in yellow gingko leaves, the path around Deoksugung Palace can be described as beautiful, classy, and elegant. When you take a stroll around the stone walls, you realize why you need to slow down, why you want to have a loved one with you. After hearing about the nostalgic romance and ambience of the walkway, you can’t wait to see for yourself what the fuss is about.

The famed pathway starts at Daehanmun, the main gate of Deoksugung Palace facing Seoul City Hall. The gate is just outside City Hall Station of subway lines 1 and 2. The entire length of the Deoksugung stone-walled path is only 1.5 kilometers. It barely takes 30 minutes even if you walk at the slowest pace, but old-fashioned sentimentality lingers on for a long, long time. The most beautiful scene along the walls is created by the gingko trees planted at a one-meter interval. When you walk under the yellow-leaved gingko trees on a fall day, you feel like the whole world is colored bright yellow.

Golden gingko leaves flutter in a gust of autumn wind, recreating a scene right out of a romantic cinema.

- I came from Cheongju just to take a walk on this path. So I’m taking a stroll now.
- I was here once before, but came back again because it was so beautiful.

If your stroll started from Daehanmun, you will see Seoul Museum of Art on the left. A little way down from the museum stands Chungdong Methodist Church. Built in1897, the gothic red brick building is Korea’s first Protestant church. Encountering an old church on the street strewn with yellow leaves would make a perfect subject for a watercolor painting.

The area around Deoksugung Palace is dotted with historical places which stood witness to the contemporary history of Korea. Called Jeong-dong, the neighborhood is where foreign consulates and missionary schools and churches were built in the late 19th century. Paichai배제 Academy, Korea’s first modern educational institute, was established in 1885 and Ewha Academy, the nation’s first school for girls, in the following year. Then Russian-born Antoinette Sontag built Sontag Hotel, Korea’s first western-style lodging, in 1902. But unfortunately, the building has been demolished and only its site remains to this day. Of many historical sites, Jungmyeongjeon located next to Jeongdong Theater is a must-see attraction. The grand reception hall used by King Gojong to receive foreign dignitaries was restored last summer and is now open to the public.

Jungmyeonjeon was a two-story red brick building built in renaissance style. It was famous for being the first western style structure inside the palace compound. But the construction of a wall between Gyeongungung Palace and Jungmyeongjeon pushed the brick building outside of the royal residential boundaries. Despite its modern and refined exterior, its atmosphere is one of forlorn isolation.

- The view is blocked and standing by itself makes it look rather lonesome and isolated.
-It’s so modern-looking that it’s hard to believe it’s a building from the Joseon era. King Gojong supposedly liked its terrace where he can get some air. I think that must have been very appealing.
- It doesn’t look like an old building. They did a good job restoring it to appear modern. But I read about the history of this place, which makes me feel rather sad.

Jungmyeonjeon means a hall with endless bright light. Designed in 1897 by Russian architect Sebatin, it was originally built as a royal library inside the Deoksugung compound. It was called Suokheon in the beginning, but when King Gojong moved here after Deoksugung Palace was burned down in 1904, it was renamed Jungmyeongjeon. The building is important in Korean history because the fate of the Korean Empire was sealed here a hundred years ago. Here’s tour guide Im Mi-hyeon to explain more.

This is where Korea’s diplomatic sovereignty was taken away by Japan in 1905. It’s also the place where King Gojong in his desperation sent an envoy to The Hague to make a plea to the world to condemn the 1905 protectorate treaty forced on Korea by Japan.

In the early morning hours of November 18th, 1905 the Japanese imperial government launched a military raid on Jungmyeongjeon and threatened King Gojong and his official to wrest away Korea’s diplomatic power and turned Korea into a protectorate of Japan. A report filed by the American consulate in Korea on November 20th, 1905 describes the situation in detail.

The consulate was just 23 meters away, separated by a low wall. It was a clear night and the moon was high up in the sky. Japanese military police was seen guarding the verandah off the meeting room and the palace’s only rear exit.

The German consulate in Korea also wrote up a report on about the tragic incident.

Two days ago at two o’clock in the morning all government officials except for prime minister were forced under threat to stamp their seals on the papers prepared by the Japanese.

There are four exhibition rooms on the first floor. The second exhibition room is presumed to be the place where the protectorate treaty was signed. So please take a look in the room to see the background information and the contents of the treaty. There are also displays showing how the treaty was arranged, who were there to witness the forced signing, and how the treaty lacks certain features of a true agreement.

The four exhibition rooms in the first floor of Jungmyeongjeon are the same ones used 100 years ago. Each room has a vestige of a fireplace. The second exhibition room located to the left of the entryway is supposedly the place where the protectorate treaty was concluded. A rectangular table is placed in the center of the room and the banners explaining how the treaty was signed are on the table.

Exhibition room 3 shows how Korea tried to inform the foreign media about the unfairness of the treaty, and the fourth exhibition room how King Gojong sent a special envoy to The Hague. The stairs to the second floor catches our attention with its tiles.

The tiles on the first floor hallway are Russian mosaic tiles from 100 years ago. Glass is placed on top to preserve the tiles. You can probably see how Korea strove for modernization a century ago.

King Gojong used to receive foreign emissaries on the second floor. As soon as you enter the door, you can see the official portrait of the king. In it King Gojong is dressed in his golden imperial gown.

Above the fireplace hangs an old Korean flag. This is said to be the oldest surviving Taegeukgi.

That flag over there was the one King Gojong gave to a foreign consultant in 1880. That American consultant, now known only as Dan, took it when he returned to America in about 1890. This is the flag you see in the picture. We made the colors a bit more vivid. This is the oldest Taeguekgi remaining today.

On the podium is a screen with embroidered plum trees and the turtle-shaped gold royal seal used on all of King Gojong’s correspondence kept in a glass case. Music flows from one side of the room.

Listen to the music carefully. This may be the first time you’ve heard it. It was composed by German musician Franz Eckert and used as the national anthem of the Korean Empire. It was designated as Korea’s national anthem in 1902, but after Japan’s annexation of Korea in 1910, it was replaced by the Japanese anthem. Interestingly, Eckert wrote both the anthems for the Korean Empire and Japan.

Tourists who have seen the second floor exhibition room with the royal portrait feel somber.

- When Japanese tourists come and see this, I hope they return home and tell others what the truth is and what wrong their government did in the past.
- This place is really meaningful. It’s fortunate that this place is open to the public so that many more can find out about Korea’s history.

Outside Jungmyeongjeon the pleasant stone-walled path continues.
A low incline is ahead of us. It’s just like our life with all its ups and downs. Walking up the hill slowly makes us pensive.

- It was nice to take a walk and see many things. The fall foliage was beautiful and it’s wonderful to find a place like this in downtown Seoul.
-I got a chance to learn a lot from the tour guide. This palace is historically very important. We shouldn’t just admire the buildings, but find out how they were built and what kind of significance they have in our history.

The path will take you past Jeongdong Kyung Hyang Gallery, the Salvation Army History Museum of Korea, and Deoksu Elementary School before finally leading out to Gwanghwamun.

Walking along the stone walls of Deoksugung Palace brings out all the cherished memories of the past, but also takes you to the site of tragic events in Korean history. Find some time in your busy city life to travel back in time before the weather turns too cold for a stroll.