The performance is titled “MISO,” or “smile.” It’s a traditional Korean musical comprised of such elements as Korean dance, samulnori, fan dance, drum dance, and mask dance. Today’s performance is inspired by Korea’s favorite pansori, the love story of Chunhyang. Here’s actress Im Hee-jeong who plays the leading role of Chunhyang in the play.

MISO is based on the love song of Chunhyang. She is in love with Mongryong, but is pursued by the village’s chief official as well. Despite Chief Byun’s pressure, her love for Mongryong endures. I think people would like this piece, because it’s about love.

This Korean traditional musical was first staged in 1997. Fourteen years and 3,000 performances later, MISO has become a signature piece that publicized Korea’s traditional culture to some 550 thousand Korean and foreign spectators.

- It was so fun. I go to various performances whenever I come to Korea and my friend told me in August how much she enjoyed the performance. I see why she liked it so much. I already knew about the story of Chunhyang so it was easy to follow the plot. I want to tell my friends in Japan about it. I’m learning Korean in Japan now and I want to invite Mr. Nakayama in my class to see this.

The weather has grown too cold for outdoor performances. So how about a tour of indoor cultural venues? Let’s make our way to Chongdong Theater, where traditional performances take place all year round.

When you get off Subway No. 2 at City Hall Station and walk along the stone wall of Deoksu Palace, you will come to a three-way fork on the road. To your left is the Seoul Museum of Art, and about 11 o’clock ahead is Chungdong First Methodist Church. Go straight ahead for about 100 steps and you’ll see a red brick building to your right. That’s Chongdong Theater. The theater may have a modern appearance, but there is a reason why the theater is located at this particular location. Here’s Jang Seok-ryu to explain more about Chongdong Theater.

Chongdong Theater was first opened in 1995 as an annex of the National Theater of Korea. To commemorate the nation’s first theater Wongaksa, Chongdong Theater was built on the original site of Wongaksa. The mission and vision of Chongdong Theater is to globalize, popularize, and upgrade Korean traditions.

Wongaksa was Korea’s first modern national theater founded in 1907. The Korean musical genre was born at this place.

The traditional pansori is composed of one drum player to set the rhythm and one singer. But Wongaksa productions veered away from the traditional version and introduced a new form of traditional play called changgeuk, or musical, in which props were arranged on the stage and actors and actresses were called on to play various roles.

Traditional pansori favorites like Chunhyangga and Shicheongga, the song of Shimcheong, were rendered into musicals, and a number of western-style fictions, such as Gwieuiseong, or the Voice of a Spirit, written by Korea’s first modern novelist Lee In-jik in the earlier part of the 20th century, were also performed as musicals. The establishment of Wongaksa gave numerous opportunities to talented singers and the theater soon became the cradle of many singing masters. Unfortunately, though, Wongaksa had to be dismantled only three years later.

Chongdong Theater was built in 1995 on that very site of ill-fated Wongaksa. Chongdong Theater insists on presenting only traditional performances throughout the year to keep the legacy of Wongaksa alive. In particular, its excellent foreign language service for foreign tourists is what sets this theater apart from others. Here’s Jang Seok-ryu of Chongdong Theater again.

Chongdong Theater is currently presenting only “MISO.” We have no plans to show other performance pieces. This was our operation strategy from the beginning. We planned to globalize traditional performances. We focused on presenting the non-verbal versions of famous Korean stories and providing subtitles of the plot in the beginning of the show to help foreign visitors understand the performance better. Our employees from ticket sales to theater guides all speak at least one foreign language. There is also a simultaneous interpretation service in English, Chinese, and Japanese during the show.

Now let’s tour the inside of the theater. The first space you see as you enter the theater is a small and pleasant garden named Pocket Garden. Follow a series of MISO posters hung along the garden wall and you’ll reach the theater in the basement of the building.

When you come down the stairs you’ll see a quiet, comfortable space. Other theaters strive to look grand or splendid, but we tried the other approach. We want people to feel an unpretentious, cozy, and pleasant energy when they enter our theater.

The theater lobby is plastered with MISO posters, which makes it a perfect backdrop for photo buffs. But visitors seem to be drawn to another corner of the lobby. It’s where people can try on traditional Korean costumes.

This is where you can try on traditional Korean costumes. Most of the clothing here is from the Joseon era, but there are some pieces from Shilla and Goguryeo as well. I’m Japanese. Please try them on.

Putting on colorfully embroidered Korean costume of hanbok offers an unforgettable experience to foreign visitors.

- It was a difference experience from putting on a Japanese costume. The colors are vivid and the design is very different and pretty. I think Korea has a great dancing culture. Koreans sing and dance well, and they are very energetic. Also the colors are more varied than in Japan.

It’s time for the performance to begin. The audience appears to be really looking forward to the Korean traditional musical, MISO.

It’s easy for everyone to understand MISO because it’s a non-verbal production. The musical has incorporated just about every traditional artistic discipline, from Korean dance to traditional instrument performance of samulnori, in order to leave a lasting impression on the foreign audience. A viewing of MISO gives you a total package experience of traditional Korean culture. Being the representation of Korean tradition, actors and actresses on the show are very careful about how they portray the characters. Here are two main cast members from the show. Actor Roh Ki-hyun playing the male lead of Lee Mong-ryong and Im Hee-jeong in the role of Chunhyang.

I think this production of Chunghyang story is made to delight the audience and make it more approachable. I try to play a positive character, making my movements bigger and facial expressions more joyful. That’s how I approach the audience.

I tend to think more about my facial expressions lest I can’t communicate my feelings to the audience. I have to admit that sometimes I have to exaggerate the feelings of sadness, joy, surprise and what not. But I do so for the benefit of foreign audience. I want them to understand more easily. So I get more into my part.

Audience comes first to MISO producers and performers. Because the musical is filled with thoughtful considerations for foreigners, it comes as no surprise that MISO sees a steady increase of foreigners in its audience. Here’s Jang Seok-ryu of Chongdong Theater again.

Foreigners account for about 85 to 87% of our audience. About six million foreign tourists come to Korea each year. Our non-verbal performance is geared toward those foreign tourists. So the marketing and performance plans are all designed to attract that target audience. We see about 70 thousand paying foreign customers per year.

Korean folk instrument performance of samulnori wraps up the musical. The cheerful sounds of Korean drums and metallic gongs are certain to resonate in the hearts of foreign spectators for a long time.

- I came with a tour group. Today’s performance was so nice and I was moved by the love story. The theater design here is good for the performers and audience members to enjoy together.
- The performance was great. I want to carry this feeling to China. I think this place is a great place to experience Korean tradition and represent Korean culture.

Performance is not the only enjoyment offered by Chongdong Theater. A stop at a romantic coffee shop named Gildeulyeojigi would charm those looking for a relaxing and picturesque atmosphere. Here’s café manager Jo Gyeong-tae.

There is a poem titled “Gildeulyeojigi” written by poet Won Tae-yeon. Meaning “getting used or getting tamed,” the café name was taken from the scene between the little prince and the fox in “The Little Prince.” We named the café like that because we wanted people to enjoy the food and the scenery in leisure. We also offer a variety of Italian dishes. It’s a great place to enjoy great Italian food in a very Korean atmosphere.

The café/restaurant is a popular spot for everyone who visits Chongdong Theater. Located near the theater entrance, its outdoor terrace is a fabulous place to enjoy the scenery in spring and fall, and the café’s floor-to-ceiling windows let in enough sunlight in winter to warm up everyone’s heart. The red-brick exterior of the theater and the café seems to maintain the ambience of the Deoksu Palace stone wall, and the wooden tables and chairs accentuate the naturalistic tendency. Customers can have all their senses gratified at Gildeulyeojigi.

- I came here for a business luncheon and loved the atmosphere. I recommend this place for good conversation and great food. They claim to use only natural ingredients for their dishes so I feel healthier when I eat here. I hear that foreign tourists frequent this place. It would make a great tourist destination with a wonderful performance at the theater and a tasty meal here at the café.

Come and experience Korean traditional art at Chongdong Theater and its history-steeped neighborhood.