Jeonju: The Food Capital of Korea

by Daniel Gray

Jeonju is the city for foodies. Located in the southwest of Korea, the fertile land produces some of the best vegetables and livestock in the country. It is also near the coasts so fresh seafood is prominently featured in the cuisine. What I think makes this region's cuisine so different is the people. I find that Jeollabukdo people (people from the Jeolla province) appreciate the slower and more artistic aspects of life. The region is famous for its produce, its school, and its artists. It doesn't have a lot of heavy industries like other parts of Korea, so the area is very clean. The climate is warmer so fruits, livestock and vegetables thrive there. Because of this vibrant lifestyle, the people are creative and generous with their food. In recent times, Jeonju has become a major tourism destination for Koreans and foreigners. It's centrally located hanok (Korean traditional house) village is a spectacle and features many of the area's famous restaurants, artisan shops, and architecture. In my recent visits I have found the hanok village expanding and it looks like many Seoul citizens are moving there in search of a different lifestyle. For those looking to travel to the region, here is a list of must try foods.

Jeonju Bibimbap

A visit to Jeonju must include a meal with Jeonju bibimbap. However, it is difficult to decide which one to visit since every place claims to be the best and original. Jeonju bibimbap is characterized by its colorful array of different ingredients such as vegetables like bean sprouts, zucchini, carrots, bracken, spinach; nuts and seeds like chestnuts, sesame seeds and gingko nuts; and proteins such as beef and egg yolk. The sauce used to flavor the dish is very important as well. Beef is typically cooked in with the red chili paste. It is a cornucopia of the freshest and best quality ingredients that is typically served in Korean brassware called Yugi. But what makes this dish special are the array of banchan (side dishes) that come with the meal that range from kimchis, fermented fish, blanched vegetables and more. It is a meal that was prepared for aristocrats and members of royalty.

Jeonju Royal Court Cuisine

In Jeonju, fresh ingredients and skilled methods of preparation make a full royal court meal a celebration. Spread out on a large table before the guests, dishes from the land and sea are intricately arranged like a map- boasting the fertility of the province. You'll get savory pancakes, crispy grilled fish, fresh sashimi, robust soups, pickled kimchis, fresh vegetables and more. Dishes like sinseollo: a multi-ingredient soup cooked in a special pot and hongeo bossam: fermented skate with kimchi and pork belly are unique and special. Some places will have special dishes like slowly braised beef ribs in a savory soy sauce, braised fish and soy marinated crab. A meal of this type is a culinary experience one must experience in Korea and I think the chefs in Jeonju do it the best.

Jeonju Makgeolli

When you order a large pitcher of chilled, milky rice beer in Jeonju; a table full of food follows. If you finish your pitcher of rice beer and order a second, then more food follows and this food is upgraded and different from the previous one. If you finish the second picture and get a third, then more food follows. In Jeonju, when you drink makgeolli you should eat well and be merry. The regional rice beer here is abundant and flavorful. Each makgeolli place has their own special side dishes. You could get pork belly stewed in kimchi, steamed skate, chicken soup, fresh fruit, assorted pancakes and more-depending on the place you go to. Jeonju has two areas that locals refer to as Makgeolli Golmoks: central places for rice beer. You can stay at one place all night or hop from place to place.

Here are some other Notable Jeonju Eats

Amazing Breads and Chocolate Pies

In Jeonju, you have to try the chocolate pies and cookies from PNB Bakery. The cream filled chocolate pies are heavenly and people line up around the block to get them.

Famous Noodles that People come for

In what looks like a little unassuming restaurant front is a famous noodle place that has large rooms for seating in the back, a full parking lot and has recently expanded. The restaurant is called Veteran because the noodle maker is a a seasoned pro. Locals and tourists are obsessed with the restaurant's silky noodles in an egg-drop broth topped with wild sesame seeds. Their dumplings are outstanding as well.

The Hangover Cure

After a night of makgeolli and food, Jeonju people believe that a bowl of bean sprout and rice soup is the perfect cure. They say the place with the best broth and freshest bean sprouts is at Sambekjip. Here the flavorful broth with soothing rice is a great way to start the day.