I was thinking today how amazing my life in Korea has been so far and the next chapter in my life is starting. I came to Korea almost 10 years ago as a burnout cook who thought he wanted to be a chef. Before that I was a writer trying to get published while teaching creative writing and moonlighting at a cafe. After I had paid off some school loans, I decided I wanted travel the world and Korea was my first stop.

Ten years ago Korea was such a different place. I remember coming into Incheon. There to greet me was my first boss, Mr. Lim who then drove me all the way to Gyeongju. I believe it took us about 5 hours. My first apartment was a rooftop box that was split into 3 tiny apartments that were the size of a king sized bed.

It was a tiny place but comfortable. My first night I hung out with my coworkers for a few hours and then I called it a night in anticipation of my first Korean breakfast.

At six in the morning, I got up and looked for a restaurant. I didn’t know what sort of place I was looking for because I didn’t know what Koreans ate for breakfast. Early in the morning in Gyeong-ju-ites don’t rise so the streets were empty. Except for the occasional cat, the city seemed dormant. I wandered through alley ways and down side streets looking for signs of life.

Eventually I found a little restaurant that was open. I went inside and to find several old men mumbling and screaming at each other while drinking clear alcohol they poured from emerald green bottles.

I sat and waited for a server to bring me a menu or something. I sat for about five minutes waiting for someone to come. They didn’t come so I got up and walked around trying to find someone while saying, “Excuse me. Hello, can I get some help.” Each time I said it, my annoyance could be heard in my voice.

Eventually, the drunk old guys came to my rescue. They yelled something that sounded like “Ajumma ya! Songsa-nimp wassup. (This is what I wrote down since I was trying to learn Korean.)
An older lady that was sleeping came out from the back. She looked at me. I pointed one finger up and said, “hana.” She didn’t even say anything and she disappeared into the back. I could hear the clang of metal and then the lady came back carrying a tray of stuff. She set a mini gas burner in front of me and then put a pot of reddish/brown soup that had bones and a green leaf on top. She turned on the heat and brought out some red, cubed radish, a brown paste and a bowl of sliced raw garlic and red chilies.

I said, “kamsahamnida (“thank you.” I taught myself a few phrases on the plane).
I had no idea what to do. I mean there was a pot of bones, potatoes, onions, and who knows what else boiling away in front of me. I knew it was probably pork (I was hoping so) because there was a picture of a happy pig on the sign outside.

Since there was a burner on the table with soup and condiments, I thought I was supposed to cook the soup.

I started adding seasoning such as some pepper. I took the meat off the bones and added it. I mashed the garlic with a spoon and added it as well to the soup. I even added some turnip kimchi and the red paste. After it was bubbling for a bit. I reduced the heat to simmer and I started to read my book.

After a few minutes, I tasted the soup. It was earthy and a tad spicy. It had a pungent pork and garlic flavor as well.

It wasn’t exactly what I had in mind for my first meal. I thought over time it would get better. It didn’t so I ate a bit more of the soup and all my rice and then I was ready to leave. I waited for the waitress to come back. She didn’t. So I started looking around for her with some money in my hand. She saw me walking around so she took my money and I was off. As we past my table, she looked at me and started saying something…loudly. I guess she didn’t like what I did. I tried to speak, but I didn’t know any Korean so she looked at me like I was retarded. Not knowing what else to do, I bowed, said “kamsahamnida” and left.

I didn't know then but I do now that I went to a hangover soup restaurant and I wasn't supposed to all add the sauces and side dishes to the soup. Koreans just like their foods bubbling hot. I think this is probably why the old woman was a bit upset about.