On September 7-9, 2014 will the Chuseok Holiday in Korea. Chuseok is one of Korea’s busiest and most important holidays. It is a time when immediate and distant relatives come together. For some it might be the only time when members will see each other all year. Chuseok is not a celebration of the food like in North America; it is a celebration of family and remembrance.

The remembrance ceremony, or Jesa, requires days of preparation and great deal of food. During this period, traditional markets, supermarkets, and department stores are all a buzz with activity as families are gathering all the necessary foods and table settings for the ceremony, which is called charye.

The ceremony is held at the home of the eldest son of the oldest surviving generation of the family. If that person is not available, then it would move to second oldest son and so on. Preparation for the ceremony is of the utmost importance. The foods should be local and certain elaborations such as the departed’s favorite foods can be added to the table. The ceremonial table is usually a low floor table that would be large enough to hold the food settings. Behind the table might be a folded altarpiece with Confucianist Proverbs or a naturalistic painting. The foods are set on special plates that are made of wood or brass. In the center of the food table is the Shinwi or memorial tablet. This tablet would have the names of the people being remembered. These days paintings of the ancestors are often used in place of the Shinwi.

The preparation and the placement of the food on the charye table is very important. First of all, the foods can’t be made with garlic, onions, or red pepper for it is believed that these will prevent the spirits of the ancestors from coming to the offering. Red beans, fish without scales and peaches are to be avoided for the same reason.

The table should be placed looking toward the north, with the chopstick and spoon setting facing north as well. The basic rule is that near the shinwi, the more nutritious and luxurious foods should be closest. So in the first row, closest to the shinwi, there would be rice fish, and rice cakes called Songpyeon. The Songpyeon, are supposed to be in the shape of the crescent moon. They are often white or colored with green mugwort and then they are steamed with fragrant pine needles. In the following row there would be candles and soups made from oxtail, beef, or fish. The following row would have vegetables such as green spinach, yellow bean sprouts, white blanched turnip, and white kimchi. The row to the end of the table would have fruits such as red daechu dates, white chestnuts, orange persimmons, yellow melons, red apples and dried persimmons. On a smaller table at the end would be a bowl where incense sticking out of sad would sit. The smoke from the incense represents the heavens and the sand the earth. Then to the right of the incense could be a bottle of traditional liquor.

The ceremony starts with the lighting of candles and the sound of a brass spoon hitting a brass bowl. As the sound resonates, the eldest male descendent will make an offering of rice wine by pouring it into a cup this will be followed by his wife doing the same. Then they will both bow before the altar.

This will be repeated by the second eldest and third eldest until all male heirs have given their respects.

Then the meal ceremony will start by sticking the spoon into the center of the rice bowl with the end sticking out. The family will bowl before the altar and then leave the room which will allow the ancestors to enjoy their meal.

The eldest will come in and move a pair of chopsticks to a particular dish such as the fish or vegetable. This will be moved once more and then the family will bow.

To signal the end of the meal, tea will be poured for the ancestors. The chime will sound once more and everyone bows twice and then the ancestors will be gone until the ceremony is performed again in the new year. Finally, the family will all get together and share a great feast.

The Charye Ceremony varies from family to family and from province to province. Regardless of all the variations, the importance of the ceremony is about remembrance and gratitude for the wisdom and lives of the family’s forbearers.