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Best of Dongdaemun

2016-08-17



The historic neighborhood of Dongdaemun is a top draw for Seoul’s visitors for its many activities and sights. Literally meaning “great East gate”, the Dongdaemun name draws from Heunginjimun, the great gate here that served as one of the eight gates of Seoul along the city’s fortress walls. The current gate has stood in place since 1869 though past forms of the gate have stood there since centuries before. The colorful designs and patterns of Heunginjimun makes for a pretty picture spot and a unique attribute about it is that it’s the only gate among the Seoul gates to have a small half-circle shaped defensive wall called ongseong.

Near Heunginjimun you can see parts of the old Seoul City Wall. Walking north along it will bring you to Naksan, or Mount Nak. Modest in height, the mountain takes its name from “nakta” the Korean word for camel as the mountain was said to resemble a camel’s hump. Naksan was long revered as one of the four guardian mountains of Seoul and was said to be a favorite location of past royal families for its natural beauty but unfortunately much of the mountain was destroyed or developed during the Japanese colonial era. The Naksan Park still offers a lovely break from city life however and its trails and viewpoints offers some excellent scenic views that changes in atmosphere between day and night.

While at Naksan Park check out the Ewha Village for its art murals and quaint shops, cafes, and restaurants. While traditionally a poorer neighborhood, the area has become a popular draw for its scenic setting and wall murals. Please do be respectful for the local residents however by minimizing intrusions on privacy and keeping noise levels down. Walking down west from Naksan Park and Ewha Village will bring you to the Daehakno area. This area, which literally means “university street”, has long remained a favorite hangout for students in particular for the number of universities in the surrounding area. The many cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops are a top draw but Daehakno is particularly well known for the many small to mid-sized theater productions. The mostly amateur and independent productions ranges in a wide variety of genres and tickets are inexpensive. Do note though that most of the productions are in Korean. For a different experience, every Sunday the area around Hyewha Cathedral in Daehakno becomes a makeshift Filipino market as the many Filipino expats gather to buy and sell food and other goods from back home.

From Heunginjimun, go south and you’ll come across Cheonggyecheon Stream and near it many wholesale vendors selling cloth, textile, accessories, and more. Further south you’ll come to the famed Dongdaemun Shopping Complex which is home to the many different wholesale department stores which are particularly famous for its through-the-night and relatively cheap shopping. Dongdaemun has, for decades, served as a sort of center for wholesale vendors supplying goods all over the country which explains the late hours and low prices. If you’re looking for a very traditional experience, Dongmun Market, just east of Heunginjimun, and Changshin Market just north of Dongdaemun Station, are geared purely towards locals.

Of course, in Dongdaemun one cannot miss the Dongdaemun Design Plaza, or DDP, which has quickly become one of Seoul’s most iconic sites since its opening in 2014. This massive fluid-seeming structure was designed by the late renowned architect Zaha Hadid, and today is an important center of design, culture, and history. In addition to shops, galleries, and exhibitions, the DDP holds meeting spaces for business events. Be sure to check out the rows of LED roses that light up at night behind the DDP for a beautiful sight!

Food lovers can enjoy the many street food near the Dongdaemun shops that open at night for cheap eats. Also inexpensive is the grilled fish alley featuring shops that sell charcoal grilled whole fish served with rice and side dishes, and the dakhanmari alley in which a whole chicken and vegetables are cooked together in a clear, flavorful herbal broth in a big dented metal pot. A central Asian section in Dongdaemun is known for its expat community of central Asian and Russian community and holds many authentic restaurants, bakeries, and stores for a different experience.

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