This is the forest-explanation program held every weekend and on holidays at Hongneung Arboretum situated within the Korea Forest Research Institute in Cheongryangni-dong, Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul. The arboretum boasts of about 200,000 individual trees from 2,035 different species of 157 families. So, the site is like a living botanical plant encyclopedia. Today, let’s take a trip to a forest path overflowing with the enriched green fragrance from the rainy season.

Hongneung Arboretum is located inside the Korea Forest Research Institute. It can be reached from exit No. 1 of Hoegi Station and exit No. 2 of Cheongryangni Station of subway line 1 and exit No. 3 of Korea University Station of subway line 6. But it takes some time from either station to the botanical garden. Nevertheless, once visitors step into the leafy retreat they soon realize that the 15-minute walk from the subway station was not in vain.

The fragrance of leaves here is different from what I usually smell in the city. It’s like the strong fragrance of leaves that I can smell while hiking or like the fragrance of nature from freshly cut grass.

The entrance of the National Forest Research Institute insulates the inside from the outside. Everything from what one can see to what one can smell inside of the venue is totally different from the outside. Once in the garden, lush greenery unfolds before the visitors’ eyes. To the left, conifers stand high as if to reach the sky, while broadleaf trees stand to the right. The scene can stand comparison to a sumptuous feast prepared by nature. Hongneung Arboretum is South Korea’s first botanic garden. Here is travel expert Lee Dong-mi.

It was founded in 1922. An arboretum itself is a plant bank that develops the gene system of greens, and it serves to collect, manage and preserve them for the future. Starting in 1922, about 20,000 trees of some 2,000 different species were planted in the arboretum. It’s educational for students because each tree has its nameplate with the information about the plant such as the origin, species, and so on. If you bring an illustrated plant encyclopedia, there wouldn’t be a better place for an educational playground.

Although it opened in 1922, a considerable number of the trees were burned down and destroyed during Japan’s colonial rule and the Korean War. The current garden was refurbished in the late 1960s. It began to open its doors to the public from 1993. Even these days, it’s only opened on weekends.

The arboretum is extensive. There are several gardens of conifers and broadleaf trees. There are nine small-scale gardens, three botanical gardens, and six resting areas. Each venue is wonderful. The arboretum covers some 130,000 pyeong of land.

Now let’s take a stroll to Hongneung Arboretum with the forest guide. The walk begins at the conifers gardens, No. 1 and 2. Here is forest guide Jeong Gi-seop.

Conifers are trees with needle-shaped leaves. They’re like the needles used for acupuncture. The coniferous tree forest is great for “forest bathing,” a therapeutic walk in the woods. This is a phytoncide-rich area. This substance is very effective for patients with atopic dermatitis, hypertensive patients, melancholia, and people suffering from stress.

Part of the stroll path in the conifer garden is laid with wood blocks. The wooden path is lined with big trees such as bald cypress and metasequoia that refresh one’s eyes. Taking a deep breath seems to clear one’s mind.

- The conifer-lined path is so pretty. There are squirrels and the tree fragrance is so wonderful. The fragrance is stronger after a rain. It seems to relieve my stress.
- The path is decked out prettily. Look at the squirrels out on the path and staring at us. I like such scene as well. The outside is so noisy and hot, but the inside is like a totally different world, just right for meditation.

The must-see tree in the conifer garden is the Pungsan spruce tree, a native plant of Pungsan in North Korea. Unfortunately, the parent tree died because of the poor growing conditions. But thanks to the seeds gathered beforehand, four young plants are growing nicely.

Passing the conifer forest, Garden 4 of broadleaf trees comes into view. Broadleaf trees are known for their flat and wide leaves. In Garden 3 situated across Garden 4, there are also native trees, including Adonis plants that even bloom in the snow, wild pear trees that were the first Korean tree to be listed, and the ancestral plants of trees with the botanical name eucommia ulmoides oliver, and more. Here is forest guide Jeong Gi-seop to explain about the trees.

Most of the tree names were listed by foreigners, but there is this one tree that was first listed by South Korea. It’s called “munbae” tree which is kind of a wild pear tree. This specific tree currently serves as the standard tree specimen for munbae trees all across Korea. So you should take a look at the tree. In Korea, the tree with the botanical name eucommia ulmoides oliver is mostly used as a medicinal ingredient and for tea. The father and the mother tree of all eucommia ulmoides oliver trees are here. It’s probably proper to call them the grandparent trees.

Next to Garden 4 stands the Forest Science Exhibition Hall, also known as Tree Museum. Here, visitors can acquire a lot of information on forests and forestry. Here is travel expert Lee.

The official name is the Forest Science Exhibition Hall which was opened in 1999. It’s a must-see museum built with logs. It’s a wooden building built with large pine trees and pine nut trees. The building itself is like a large exhibit, grand and splendid. Inside, visitors can learn how to read a tree’s age with growth rings, try their hands at carving an animal on a flat wood piece, and learn about the structure of the neowa house, or shingle-roofed house, in Samcheok, Gangwon Province. At the exhibition, people can learn about the functions of forests, photosynthesis, healthy forests, and how forests serve as a natural purifier. One can also try the quiz on a monitor. What’s more, at the exhibit, one can view the four seasons of Hongneung Arboretum and how pretty the greens look.

After browsing through the Tree Museum, visitors have a chance to seriously think again about how to live harmoniously with nature.

- I listened to the explanation on the relationship between forests and people. Forests not only purify the air but can also prevent natural disaster. I was impressed by the fact that people can benefit from well-preserved forests.
- I also saw the growth ring of a pine tree. It was interesting to know that these are used for building structures. The neowa house of Samcheok, Gangwon Province, was also interesting. I didn’t have much interest in trees before, but after understanding how they are used for good purposes, I really think that we should preserve them well with love.

Empress Myeongseong was slain near Gyeongbok Palace and was cremated in the pine forest about 114 years ago. After that, she was buried here for about 22 years. The tomb called Hongneung back then is the current Hongneung. But now Empress Myeongseong is buried in the same grave with Emperor Gojong in Hongyuneung in Geumgok. So, only the burial site of the empress remains here to date.

After listening to the forest guide Jeong, visitors followed him to the Hongneung burial site of Joseon’s Empress Myeongseong. She was assassinated in the incident in the year of eulmi and she was buried here two years later on November 21, 1897. Later in February 1919, when Emperor Gojong passed away, the tomb of Empress Myeongseong was moved to Geumgok, Gyeonggi Province. That’s currently the Hongyuneung in Geumgok-dong, Namyangju-si. So only the burial site remains here to serve as a witness to history. Locals fall into deep contemplation at the venue.

- It is with great emotion that I learn about the history and the burial site of Empress Myeongseong. It looks strange without the remains of the burial site. The tomb shape should have remained.
- Now that I stand here, I feel emotional and sad.

Passing the previous Hongneung tomb site, one can also take a hike to Mt. Cheongjang that’s 141 meters above sea level. Visitors are recommended to hike because it’s a low mountain and the air is refreshing. At the entrance of the hiking path, a mossy well still remains. Emperor Gogong used to drink water from this well. Travel guide Lee explains.

Mt. Cheongjang is a low mountain that’s only about 140 meters high. But the mountain is densely forested. The well situated on the way to the landscape garden was used by the king. It is said that Emperor Gojoing drank water from this well that used to be filled with clean water. But the vein of water has been dried up now.

Returning from a hike to Mt. Cheongjang, a huge rock carved with the phrase, “The Forest of Landscaping,” and the expansive landscape garden come into view. This is where a number of Korean companies have donated various trees to form a special garden. There are about 100 species growing here. From Manchurian maples that boast of red leaves and beautiful bark, jujube trees that have blossoms of small yellow flowers during early summer, Indian pink, phlox subulata, hosta, to pasqueflower and more, a wide variety of trees give the refreshing garden a cozy feeling. It’s more so because it’s situated in the deepest forest of the arboretum.

Going through Garden 7 where 4-to-5-meter high shrubs grow, a small path on the right leads to Garden 8. Garden 8 was formed later in 1966 and it’s where native trees such as narrow-leaf maples and endangered plants, including wild forsythia, can be found. It’s also perfect for “forest bathing” thanks to the tall trees growing along the valley. Here is travel expert Lee.

Garden 8 is a broadleaf garden. Large, round leaves of the trees during summer fall off in winter. It looks great in summer. The huge tree with the botanical name Platycarya strobilacea stands like a giant, a landmark, in the garden. This is the best place for so-called forest bathing because it’s filled with the strong energy of the forest. Passing through Garden 8, the path leads to the grass field and Garden 6. This garden around the grass field is divided by logs, so there are many kinds of plants growing inside each section such as a Rodger’s bronzeleaf, and plants with the botanical names Heloniopsis orientalis, Farfugium japonicum, and so on. The spot with pretty plants and herbs is the scenic place for a photo op.

On the way home, those interested in health are recommended to stop by the “Edible and Medicinal Plants Garden” next to Garden 1. It’s filled with medicinal herbs commonly used for folk remedies. As soon as the door to the arboretum is opened, visitors are sure to smell the different fragrance.

- I love the fragrance of the medicinal herbs.
- Although I’ve known the plant, I just found out that it was a medicinal herb. This sandbur, Indian pink…and this plant, which is kind of a groundsel, is a wild herb from Gangwon Province is known to be very good for one’s health. I have gained so much today. My body feels much lighter.
- I learned a great deal of common knowledge today. So wonderful!

Visitors to the Edible and Medicinal Plants Garden not only learned about trees but also gained general knowledge on health. Everyone is beaming with a smile. While encountering some 20,000 trees at Hongneung Arboretum, visitors felt like guests invited to the world of trees. During the two-hour stroll, they have walked on the dirt path, inhaled the fragrance of trees, and immersed themselves in the refreshing forest.

- It’s so pretty. Water flows. I feel so good and refreshed in the woods.
- It’s like a carpet of greens spread under tall trees. It’s surprising to find such a place in the city. It’s so beautiful.
- I can hear the birds singing and feel like I’m wrapped up in nature. I don’t feel like I’m in the city.
- It feels so good to step on a dirt path. We usually don’t have the chance to walk on a natural path. It’s such a wonderful feeling.

Although Hongneung Arboretum is situated in Seoul, quite a few people are not aware of it. This means that the botanical garden in the capital city is still a relatively unexplored venue. The garden that’s open to the public just two days a week… it’s Hongneung Arboretum in Dongdaemun-gu, Seoul.